Just Think of a Country
April 1st, 2008
Dept: Wine
Hed: Spanish Wines
Dek: Diving into a Different Region
By Josh Hackler
Think of a country. Now, think of a wine region in that country. A little more…think of a grape from which wine is produced in that country. Was your answer a cabernet sauvignon from Napa Valley right here in the U.S.? Maybe you are little more wine savvy and you thought of a pinot noir from Burgundy, France. Perhaps you are wildly in love with viniculture and thought of a Sauvignon Blanc from Auckland, New Zealand, or a Riesling from Pfalz, Germany, or a Malbec from Mendoza, Argentina — or maybe you even thought of a tempranillo from Rioja in Spain. Whatever your answer, it shows that you are a possible wine enthusiast, and that ultimately is most important.
When faced with this question, my first response was a tempranillo from Rioja. The truth is, I am obsessed with everything Spanish. Those who know me best would testify to that. I was fortunate to have lived in the capital city of Asturias, Spain, a couple of years ago. I now look back to nights where I would drink part of a bottle of some crianza from Ribera del Duero, indulge in a mixed plate of jamon iberico, chorizo, and manchego cheese served with freshly baked artisan bread and not spend more than ten euros. How could you not fall in love with that? I should also tell you that my love for wine did not develop in Spain; it originated while on a tour through Bordeaux some six years before my journey throughout Spain. After living in Spain, I came to realize that no specific topic of Spain can be analyzed or even discussed without first taking a look at its history.
So let us retreat back to the 8th century when the Moors occupied virtually all of Spain. The Moorish occupation is of incredible interest to me, because its influence is seen so easily in Spain’s architecture. If you go to southern Spain, you can detect the extreme Islamic influence, compared to the Romanic influence in the north. Moorish occupation lasted all the way up until the latter part of the 15th century. Throughout the Middle Ages and even today, there exists the camino Frances, or French road. A route through Rioja named for French pilgrims who, with millions of other devout Europeans, walked across Spain to the shrine of the apostle James in Santiago de Compostella, located in the far west autonomy of Galicia.
Needless to say, these French pilgrims did not just walk right through Rioja — they stopped to drink wine. After all, these French Europeans were not Islamic Moors; they could drink. Historically noted, in 1780, a Rioja wine-maker by the name of Manuel Quintano adopted a Bordelaise method of aging wine and began successfully aging his wine in oak wood. Unlike the French, Quintano used large barrels, which would later be considered a Spanish signature (aging wine in large oak barrels for long periods of time). For example, Marques de Murrieta, a famous Spanish vineyard, released its 1942 Gran Reserva in 1983.
Karen MacNeil in The Wine Bible writes, “The 1850s and 1860s were difficult times for French vinters, and the wine-makers throughout northern Spain profited from the distress of their French counterparts.” During these times, a parasitic fungus attacked French vineyards, which naturally drove the demand for Spanish wine to unseen levels. During this period, the Rioja wine region grew by 40,000 acres. Even some French wine-makers migrated permanently to Rioja to begin producing French-style Boudreaux. If only the demand for Spanish wine continued, today we would probably be talking about how underappreciated French wines are today rather than Spanish wines. Unfortunately, Phylloxera overtook Rioja in 1901 and wiped out more than 70 percent of the vineyards.
Many French wine vinters living in Spain moved back to France, naturally initiating a downward spiral in the popularity of the Spanish wine market. A combination of World War I, the Spanish Civil War, World War II and communism led to the serious demise of many Spanish vineyards.
What is so interesting to me is that Spain’s vinters almost anticipated the boom that would take place nearly 100 years later. Franco’s communistic dictatorship discouraged commerce with other countries. Francisco Franco finally died on November 20, 1975, causing the communistic walls to crumble. Spaniards know and have always known that this red grape juice was like liquid gold. Democracy and capitalism have slowly taken route in this very traditional culture, and both wine quality and wine sales have never been better.
Do not think for a second that Rioja is the only region worth admiring. Karen MacNeil notes in The Wine Bible, “that in fact, two of Ribera del Duero wines – Unico from Vega Sicilia and Pesquera- are among the most outstanding red wines anywhere in the world.” Another interesting fact is that according to the European Economic Community statistics, Spain has more land planted with grapes than any other country in the world- some 2.9 million acres. So I will leave you with this quote taken from an article entitled “Spain, The Next Italy” by Jerry Adler: “[Spanish wines] are among the most underappreciated wine values on the planet. For now, that is. How long that will last is anyone’s guess. Imports of Spanish wine and olive oil have more than doubled in the past five years and is only forecast to continue.” Have fun, and enjoy some incredible Spanish wine … I will.